Ellen Chen, places 2nd in the Indonesian Brewers Cup (IBrC), using Coffea Circulor’s Oxyco Batian CCX.
Indonesian Brewers Cup: An adventure where you become a valiant knight, on a quest to defend Kenyan coffee status from the clutches of the public opinion. Finding her way through the qualifications and obstacles, guarded by 40 evil Geisha competing dragons who were enchanted with treacherous tale-teller magic. In the mysterious caverns behind the scene, judges room backstage, decision was made to let the odyssey continue against the awesome forces that opposed her efforts to reach the final. Lead on, Ellen, your quest has only started:
"I’ve chosen to use a coffee from a small, little grower, research lab and roaster. Against many high profile/very expensive Geisha coffees. I hope this small step can redefine everyone’s thoughts. My Kenyan doesn’t use any water in the fermentation stage, water is difficult to find and expensive there. This is a small step that can mean a lot for others." - Ellen Chen
Thanks to @christhartono @richard.tjaharyanto @coffee.fermata @nordic_coffee @aksi_scai . For a thorough routine overview, view this post https://www.instagram.com/p/CgqMv7vBjRA/ by @sebenzacoffee
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Photo courtesy of Ellen Chen. Text inspiration from Dragon’s Lair by Don Bluth/Cinematronics.
Resources
Learn more about Ellen's coffee "Oxyco Batian CCX" here.
Ellen's transcribed presentation
Time.
Hi judges, warm welcome, I'm Ellen from Nordic Coffee.
Today, I want to take you on a journey, where you redefine Kenyan.
So, what’s on your mind, when you think about Kenyan?
My perception are dominant black currant, and sharp acidity.
This is because, as one reason out of perhaps many, Kenyan varieties are blended at unknown ratios, and nobody keeps track of it.
Let’s begin our journey by knowing, how I discovered this Kenyan, this year when I cupped several varieties of Kenyan. I found something that is so sweet, and syrupy, something that I’ve never found in Kenyan coffee before. This will redefine, your perception toward Kenyan coffee.
The coffee you’re going to taste today, is isolated Batian, from Meru Kenyan, growth at 1,500 masl.
Coffea Circulor have been taken to another level of processing, which is Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity a hybrid of aerobic and natural process.
My processor also roaster has implemented a multiple variety isolation where only ripe Batian cherries were picked at 21 Brix, fermented and dried while the coffee is drying inside the cherry.
Resulting an exceptional Kenyan just unlike your typical Kenyan.
I’m concerned about the rarity and rapid price in coffee cherry. So, Not only redefining Kenyan, but I also, will redefine the “pour over”, I will introduce you, to Tricolate. This brewer, allows you to brew using lower dose with no bypass. So, I could bring out a more flavorful coffee journey and layering, that I never found, in regular pour over brewing devices.
Today, I’m using 12 grams of coffee at a lower dose, I’m using 2 different temperatures.
For a percolative immersion dripper like this, I realized, there's always a smooth and rough side on my paper filter.
After several trials, I found that, by placing the smoother side to my coffee bed, it will be less jammed because it goes through tighter pores, to wider pores.
My first pour is 50 ml of water at 97⁰C.
I’m using MD, instead of using dispersion screen to get a more even blooming.
By changing the blooming method, and using a shallow brew bed, I can bring out clarity and have a faster brewing time!! than the usual Tricolate recipe.
The water today, is incredibly important, I’m using a deep-sea mineral, which consists of calcium, magnesium, natrium, and potassium with a hardness 22 and a total of 35 ppm.
This water, helps me to extract, the natural flavor of the coffee cherry and eliminate dryness!!, because it’s pollution free.
My second pour, is 85 ml of water at 95°C. I’m using the dispersion screen. This screen, creates a vacuum area inside my Tricolate, to keep my coffee bed at the bottom!! and I’m also using lower temperature to extract, layering and vibrant acidity!! that is usually absent in Tricolate.
My third pour, is 85 ml of water at 97°C. I'm using a higher temperature!! to bring out my coffee’s intense body, and sweetness. The ratio that I’m using today is 1:18, my total water will be 220 ml of water and my brewing time is when my Tricolate’s stop dripping which is around 3:30 minutes.
While waiting, I will explain the tasting notes so judges please take notes with me.
In the aroma you will be taken to the new heights of Kenyan coffee where you’ll smell red wine, plum and hibiscus.
For flavors, in hot temperature, sweeter than ever, you will find hibiscus, red grapes 🍇 and honey 🍯 sweetness.
When it's warm, hot flavors remain and you will find red apple also ripe mango which is sweet but at the same time, it has some sort of acidity that makes you want more of it.
As it cools, it's so creamy and sweet at the same time, you will find winey yogurt.
Now the aftertaste is medium from hot to cold, along with sweet lingering honey 🍯, red wine 🍷, hibiscus tea and plum.
The acidity, when it’s hot they are vibrant and lively and we have mostly malic and citric.
When it’s warm and cold, it will be more pronounced of tartaric combined with citric and lactic with sweet complement just unlike your typical Kenyan.
The body today is going to be syrupy when it’s hot, then as it's warm and cold becomes more rich, juicy, creamy and winey. The texture is boosting thanks to Tricolate.
I found that this coffee is most balanced when it’s in warm temperatures. It is definitely the best Kenyan coffee I have ever had.
Finally, it’s time to enjoy this coffee, and, please assess the aroma only by swirling the server 3 times, directly.
Hello please assess the aroma. Thank you (x3)
Judges during your assessment I shall be clearing my station. I'll be back soon. Thank you.
Can I have your attention please?
Judges, today I have prepared this special cup. The pores and texture inside the cup are going to reinforce a smoother body because there is a change in hydrogen bonding to the water structure.
And for that reason, I’d like you to please stir 3 times with your cupping spoon and take your first sip from the spoon, after that please evaluate directly from the cup.
Excuse me (x3)
Hello this is your coffee, please enjoy (x3)
I hope this 10 mins has defined your pov to a new way, I'm Ellen and it was a pleasure.
Time.
Coach Christian Hartano's post competition reflections
(Source: Instagram post located here.)
There's many plot twist in IBRC 2022.
First the single origin Isolated Batian Kenyan by @coffeacirculor that rock the stage in Indonesia. As far as I knew the only single origin non Gesha and exotic variety that can reach top 6 and finish in 2 position.
Before and after competition this Kenyan already questionable, are we sure use this for Brewers Cup? But the taste that unlike regular Kenyan put us in confident.
After reach final it was also questionable again whether it's infused with cranberry or not and it's slowly but sure proven not - thanks to @ivica.cvetanovski.
Second plot twist was the grinders we used for this competition.
We are using half dose @ninetypluscoffee @comandantegrinder ground and half dose of @1zpresso_tw K-max ground, to bring up unique lactic and creamy notes for the coffee and silky texture.. so basically it's a blend but in ground and grinder side of two brand that in tension situation.
Third plot twist was @tricolatecoffee dripper. Many professional not recommended it for brewers competition but this year the first and us second position seems can break the stigma.
I recapture everything while trying not so 100% @johnrchristopher winner brewing recipe and it's also delicious congrats @fugolcoffeeroasters and good luck for the world competition forward.